Montag, 26. Dezember 2016

Worldchampionship Paris and seasonal résumé

I’m sure I‘m a bit late with my monthly report, but reflecting competitions after such a long time has its benfits too. As we all know climbing is now an olympic sport, I'll have to say some words about it.

To begin with the world championship in Paris. There was some of my best and most motivating moments of this years season. First of all, I had to fight for beeing one of two austrian lead-climbers in the event, otherwise there would have been only one or several, like almost every year, who didn’t fullfill the austrian limits, so in the end I could succeed. Luckily i reach the limit within the last worldcup in Arco. And when we are talking about limits, there was one comrade who would have earned it too, because he won the last youth championship, but finally he was rejected from our team. It‘ clear that I will always point out for those deficiencies, even when some people hate you therefor. Without us climbers all the coaches and managers simply have no job, that’s the reason why we have the duty to speak up, and the more success climbers have the more money the federations gets for their future. So sometimes I’m asking myself if someone is even able to make an easy calculation like that.
Secondly I never climbed so easy into semifinals with one hundred Lead-starters! With a small mistake in Semifinal the 26th was an unsatisfying result. You can imagine how i felt afterwards, but most important for me now is, the feeling how i was able to compete.



After some weeks of hard training, China was the next stage. It was quite a busy week, not knowing if I’m allowed to compete in the Chinese Worldcup, although University Worldchampionship was fixed the same date and nearly the same location. So the booking process and getting a Visa by the climbing federation was really a last minute action. I got the Visa one day before my flight.
After a promising 5th place in the University Championships and a great time in Shanghai, I could also reach a 5th place at the Master event in Wujing. With nearly no space between the Master Event and the Worldcup I was full of expectations  and motivation for Xiamen. Then I did some good runs but messed up in Semis, I also felt a little exhaustion from the last travelling days, it was definitly time for me to come home.

Before the last event in Kranj I enjoyed some good weeks training at home, and I had the chance of starting a new training with weight additions. I could totally feel the difference and pushed myself very hard, so I felt very strong at the national bouldering competition in Innsbruck. Sadly the final was set so poor that it was a pity even competing. I noticed less routesetters in 2016 were able to make good competions, at this point I’m not claiming to know everything or determine that I was the the only one who recogniced, but one look at national and international results in qualifications and in finals says more than a hundred words.
To the last competition in Kranj: Again I was able to make an outstanding result (for myself). And with a 12th place I could secure my position as the second best austrian lead-climber and also came over the fear of this very short and traditional climbing wall. So I’m determined to continue my new training and make it even better for 2017.

 


Climbing as an Olympic sport:
We all know sport is something that is used for entertainment and fullfill people with enthusiasm for thousands of years. So in every age you can find some sport-like events with the same purpose. To connect it with climbing, we have one problem, if the desciplines stay like they are now, for example a bouldering final with a duration of 3 hours, we will be retired from the olympic games very fast. No one is interested in watching something for 3 hours, people like to be entertained! In my opinion even the speed climbing needs some changes, the best one would be to reset a route every competition. For me it’s clear why there is less climbers in speed, than in other disciplines, but are these alarming numbers also recognized by the ifsc? It has nothing to do with a world record, you can also make a 15 meter world record on the same wall with changed holds. So I can just hope for the best and shout out that there is less than 4 years and the IFSC still has no clear solution for competition format.

 
#lowa #campcassin #millet_mountain #kletterakademiemitterdorf
Austria Climbing